Photography of a Chilean Expedition deep in the heart of the Chilean Andes. Headed by 2 pioneers of fly fishing Larry Tullis and Carlos Munoz. Larry is renowned local Utah fly fisherman and guide as well as an author of many fly fishing books such as fly fishing Utah's Green river and Fly fishing Rainbows in Alaska as well as many other books and articles covering the art of fly fishing world-wide. Carlos, a native to Patagonia, is known as the Pioneer of fly fishing building the first ever lodge on the Rio Paloma, ( Paloma River ). Larry and Carlos spent years developing and putting Chile on the Flyfishing Map of one of the worlds best best fly fishing destinations. Carlos latest vision was to build a lodge after with a completely different feel to the Paloma River, the Simpson and other world class fisheries near by the town Coyhaique. which is the capital of the Region, with a population of 42.000 inhabitants, an ideal spot to start interesting Fly fishing trips to the north or the south, since there are territories that have not been explored yet.
Other important cities of the region are: Puerto Aisén, Puerto Cisnes, Chile Chico, Cochrane, Puerto Ingeniero Ibáñez and Puerto Chacabuco.. Howerer, the town of Coyhaique could be likened to Idahos Henry's Fork Anglers hub with 20 full-service, specialty fly shop and guide services lined up like a small fly fishing village now inundated with outfitters and guide services. A decade or so ago this was not the case, but like any gem, sooner or later it will be discovered. The great part is, the place is likened to Alaska a hundred years ago, which leaves much to be explored and Cherin lies the beauty. So to give anglers and fly fisherman an additional option, Carlos had a vision he had been working on for years and now was time to take action, and step one was an expedition deep into the heart of fly fishing mecca. Being that it is still in the development phase, I will refer to it as el rio sin nobre, until a later date. Having spent a month there, and having fished all over the world, this place is a special one, and with time and a realistic way to access it, which would have to be by air, unless your ready for a horrific few days on horseback, which few I would bet are willing to sign up for, is one of the last untouched trout waters left undiscovered. That is what has left it looking like it did a thousand years ago, and the trout population is as healthy as one would expect, with opportunities to catch 30 plus inch trophies. I will expound more on our fly fishing adventure at a later date, but if you have any interest in doing a trip before it is developed, with an air strip, lodge etc, let me know... I would love to go back, with a small group show you what a true fly fishing adventure is all about... Enjoy fly fishing photos and let me know what you think. One quick fact was I was the first person to have ever fly fished el rio sin nobre, which I cannot come close to saying about any river in north America, and probably the 5 millionith to fly fish the Provo River. The actual size or volume of the river is larger than that of Utah's Provo River, however, there are many similarities to fishing in Utah I felt while I was there. When it comes to rivers, looks are deceiving when it comes to accurately gauging a piece of water. If you are ever looking to find a really cool destination place to fish out side of Utah, like about as far from Utah as you can get, well Patagonia is an adventure and activity well worth looking into. Visit http://www.parkcityeXcursions.com for more information on fly fishing trips here in Utah and contact me to discuss more in depth the Patagonian operation.
Other important cities of the region are: Puerto Aisén, Puerto Cisnes, Chile Chico, Cochrane, Puerto Ingeniero Ibáñez and Puerto Chacabuco.. Howerer, the town of Coyhaique could be likened to Idahos Henry's Fork Anglers hub with 20 full-service, specialty fly shop and guide services lined up like a small fly fishing village now inundated with outfitters and guide services. A decade or so ago this was not the case, but like any gem, sooner or later it will be discovered. The great part is, the place is likened to Alaska a hundred years ago, which leaves much to be explored and Cherin lies the beauty. So to give anglers and fly fisherman an additional option, Carlos had a vision he had been working on for years and now was time to take action, and step one was an expedition deep into the heart of fly fishing mecca. Being that it is still in the development phase, I will refer to it as el rio sin nobre, until a later date. Having spent a month there, and having fished all over the world, this place is a special one, and with time and a realistic way to access it, which would have to be by air, unless your ready for a horrific few days on horseback, which few I would bet are willing to sign up for, is one of the last untouched trout waters left undiscovered. That is what has left it looking like it did a thousand years ago, and the trout population is as healthy as one would expect, with opportunities to catch 30 plus inch trophies. I will expound more on our fly fishing adventure at a later date, but if you have any interest in doing a trip before it is developed, with an air strip, lodge etc, let me know... I would love to go back, with a small group show you what a true fly fishing adventure is all about... Enjoy fly fishing photos and let me know what you think. One quick fact was I was the first person to have ever fly fished el rio sin nobre, which I cannot come close to saying about any river in north America, and probably the 5 millionith to fly fish the Provo River. The actual size or volume of the river is larger than that of Utah's Provo River, however, there are many similarities to fishing in Utah I felt while I was there. When it comes to rivers, looks are deceiving when it comes to accurately gauging a piece of water. If you are ever looking to find a really cool destination place to fish out side of Utah, like about as far from Utah as you can get, well Patagonia is an adventure and activity well worth looking into. Visit http://www.parkcityeXcursions.com for more information on fly fishing trips here in Utah and contact me to discuss more in depth the Patagonian operation.
![The house of Juan Carlos. Typical multipurpose heating element for home slash where all cooking and most importantly the kettle of hot water. Sipping Mate. Mate (Spanish pronunciation: [ˈmate]), also known as chimarrão (Portuguese: [ʃimaˈʁɐ̃w̃]) or cimarrón, is a traditional South American infused drink, particularly in Uruguay, Argentina, Paraguay, southern states of Brazil, south of Chile, the Bolivian Chaco. It is prepared from steeping dried leaves of yerba mate (llex paraguariensis, known in Portuguese as erva mate) in hot water.
Mate is traditionally drunk in a particular social setting, such as family gatherings or with friends. This is called a "roda de chimarrão" in Portuguese. In Uruguay, Brazil and Argentina, the same gourd (cuia) and straw (bomba/bombilla) are used by everyone drinking. One person (known in Portuguese as the preparador[citation needed], cevador or patrão, and in Spanish as the cebador) assumes the task of server. Typically, the cebador fills the gourd and drinks the mate completely to ensure that it is free of particulate matter and of good quality. In some places passing the first brew of mate to another drinker is considered bad manners, as it may be too cold or too strong; for this reason the first brew is often called mate del zonzo (mate of the fool). The cebador subsequently refills the gourd and passes it to the drinker to his or her right, who likewise drinks it all, without thanking the server. It is possible that the cebador drinks the second filling as well, if he or she deems it too cold or bitter. When there is no more tea, the straw makes a loud sucking noise, that is not considered rude. The ritual proceeds around the circle in this fashion until the mate becomes lavado ("washed out" or "flat"), typically after the gourd has been filled about ten times or more depending on the yerba used (well-aged yerba mate is typically more potent, and therefore provides a greater number of refills) and the ability of the cebador. When one has had his fill of mate, he or she politely thanks the cebador passing the mate back at the same time. When someone takes too long, others in the roda (Spanish: "ronda"; English: "round") will likely friendly warn him or her by saying "bring the talking gourd" (cuia de conversar); an Argentine equivalent, especially among young people, being "no es un micrófono" ("it's not a microphone"), an allusion to the drinker holding the mate for too long, as if they were using it as a microphone to deliver a lecture.
Some drinkers like to add sugar or honey, creating mate dulce (sweet mate), instead of sugarless mate amargo (bitter mate). It is considered bad for the gourd (especially for the natural (squash or wood) ones) to be used for mate dulce so it is normal for households with drinkers of both kinds to have two separate gourds. It is also often considered proper only for children and women, not for adult men, though this is becoming quickly obsolete.
Traditionally, natural gourds are used, though wood vessels, bamboo tubes and gourd-shaped mates, made of ceramic or metal (stainless steel or even silver) are also common. The gourd is traditionally made out of the porongo or cabaça fruit shell. Gourds are commonly decorated with silver, sporting decorative or heraldic designs with floral motifs.
[edit] Culture
It is the national drink in Uruguay[citation needed], though Paraguay and Argentina also happen to claim nationality over the beverage[citation needed], and drinking it is a common social practice in parts of Brazil, Chile, eastern Bolivia. In Brazil, it is considered to be a tradition typical of the Gauchos, a term commonly used to describe residents of the South American pampas, chacos, or Patagonian grasslands, found principally in parts of Argentina, Uruguay, Southern Chile, and Southern Region, Brazil. The drink contains caffeine.[8]
[edit] Rituals
How to drink Mate
Drinking the yerba mate is considered to be more than just good for the body; it's also good for the soul. Drinking it can be a form of meditation or reflection - allowing the goodness to infuse into the body while stimulating and resting the mind. Those who share the mate join in a kind of bond of total acceptance and friendship. Generally the server will start a new infusion and then take the first drink. This is considered an act of kindness by the other people in the circle, because usually the first serving is considered the worst.
Both the wood vessels and the gourds must undergo curing to get a better taste before being used for the first time and to ensure the long life of the gourd. Typically, to cure a gourd, the wet inside is first scraped with the tip of a teaspoon to remove loose gourd particles. Mate herb and hot water is added next, and the mixture poured into the gourd. The mixture is left to sit overnight and the water is topped off periodically through the next 24 hours as the gourd absorbs the water. Finally the gourd is scraped out, emptied, and put in sunlight until completely dry. Drying the gourd near a Parrilla (barbecue grill) is common in Argentina or Uruguay and adds a smokey flavor to the gourd.
It is common for a black mold to grow inside a poorly scraped gourd when it is stored wet. Some people will clean this out, others consider it an enhancement to the mate flavor. Storing the gourd empty and in a well ventilated place, like an open shelf, is the better way.[citation needed]
[edit] Health effects
Mate is very much like coffee and tea, is considered safe by the United States Food and Drug Administration, and is on their GRAS (Generally Recognized as Safe) list.
In-vivo and in-vitro studies are showing that yerba mate exhibits significant cancer-fighting activity. In 1995, research at the University of Illinois found yerba mate to inhibit the proliferation of oral cancer cells.
On the other hand, researchers in Mississippi found that both cold and hot water extractions of popular commercial yerba mate products contained high levels (8.03 to 53.3 ng/g dry leaves) of carcinogenic polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs) (i.e. Benzo[a]pyrene).[9] However, these potential carcinogenic compounds originate from commercial drying process of the mate leaves, which involves smoke from the burning of wood, much like polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons found in wood smoked meat.[10]
Other studies have highlighted limited evidence showing an association between esophageal cancer and hot mate drinking. Some research has suggested that this effect is almost entirely a consequence of hot mate's temperature; similar links to cancer have been found for tea and other beverages generally consumed at high temperatures. While drinking mate at very hot temperatures is considered as "probably carcinogenic to humans" on the IARC Group 2A carcinogens list, mate itself is not classifiable as to its carcinogenicity to humans.[11]
Also one study has found link between mate consumption and increased risk of bladder[12] and lung[13] cancer.
[edit] Legendary origins
The Guaraní (Guarani, in Portuguese) people started drinking mate in the region that now includes Paraguay, southern Brazil, south-easthern Bolivia, north-east Argentina, and Uruguay. The Guaraní have a legend that says that the Goddesses of the Moon and the Cloud came to the Earth one day to visit it but they instead found a Yaguareté (a jaguar) that was going to attack them. An old man saved them, and, in compensation, the Goddesses gave the old man a new kind of plant, from which he could prepare a "drink of friendship".
Mate is served with a metal straw from a shared hollow calabash gourd. The straw is called a bombilla in some Latin American countries, a bomba in Portuguese, and a bombija or in general a masassa (type of straw) in Arabic. The straw is traditionally made of silver. Modern commercially available straws are typically made of nickel silver, called Alpaca, stainless steel, or hollow-stemmed cane. The gourd is known as a mate or a guampa, while in Brazil it has the specific name of cuia. Even if the water comes in a very modern thermos, the infusion is traditionally drunk from mates or cuias.
As with other brewed herbs, yerba mate leaves are dried, chopped, and ground into a powdery mixture called yerba. The bombilla acts as both a straw and a sieve. The submerged end is flared, with small holes or slots that allow the brewed liquid in, but block the chunky matter that makes up much of the mixture. A modern bombilla design uses a straight tube with holes, or spring sleeve to act as a sieve.
It is pronounced part of the culture that took me a second to get used to and made me acutely aware of how hurried, and fast paced our culture is, and how much we miss out on in are race to be on top. It brings one back to a human level of being comfortable sitting for long periods of time just talking with men. It's therapeutic and calming, and I found myself looking forward to it everyday, especially when we got deep into the back country on the cold rainy days. You sip out of the same bowl, so it's like smoking a bowl of herb except it's liquid and non mind altering, however in a sense it is, in that it leaves you relaxed. There is something healing about burning wood, talking, and drinking a hot drink that does something healthy to the human spirit.](http://www.utahflyfishingpros.com/Patagonia/Fly-Fishing-Destinations/i-kvJNtSp/0/Ti/IMG_0221-Ti.jpg "The house of Juan Carlos. Typical multipurpose heating element for home slash where all cooking and most importantly the kettle of hot water. Sipping Mate. Mate (Spanish pronunciation: [ˈmate]), also known as chimarrão (Portuguese: [ʃimaˈʁɐ̃w̃]) or cimarrón, is a traditional South American infused drink, particularly in Uruguay, Argentina, Paraguay, southern states of Brazil, south of Chile, the Bolivian Chaco. It is prepared from steeping dried leaves of yerba mate (llex paraguariensis, known in Portuguese as erva mate) in hot water.
Mate is traditionally drunk in a particular social setting, such as family gatherings or with friends. This is called a \"roda de chimarrão\" in Portuguese. In Uruguay, Brazil and Argentina, the same gourd (cuia) and straw (bomba/bombilla) are used by everyone drinking. One person (known in Portuguese as the preparador[citation needed], cevador or patrão, and in Spanish as the cebador) assumes the task of server. Typically, the cebador fills the gourd and drinks the mate completely to ensure that it is free of particulate matter and of good quality. In some places passing the first brew of mate to another drinker is considered bad manners, as it may be too cold or too strong; for this reason the first brew is often called mate del zonzo (mate of the fool). The cebador subsequently refills the gourd and passes it to the drinker to his or her right, who likewise drinks it all, without thanking the server. It is possible that the cebador drinks the second filling as well, if he or she deems it too cold or bitter. When there is no more tea, the straw makes a loud sucking noise, that is not considered rude. The ritual proceeds around the circle in this fashion until the mate becomes lavado (\"washed out\" or \"flat\"), typically after the gourd has been filled about ten times or more depending on the yerba used (well-aged yerba mate is typically more potent, and therefore provides a greater number of refills) and the ability of the cebador. When one has had his fill of mate, he or she politely thanks the cebador passing the mate back at the same time. When someone takes too long, others in the roda (Spanish: \"ronda\"; English: \"round\") will likely friendly warn him or her by saying \"bring the talking gourd\" (cuia de conversar); an Argentine equivalent, especially among young people, being \"no es un micrófono\" (\"it's not a microphone\"), an allusion to the drinker holding the mate for too long, as if they were using it as a microphone to deliver a lecture.
Some drinkers like to add sugar or honey, creating mate dulce (sweet mate), instead of sugarless mate amargo (bitter mate). It is considered bad for the gourd (especially for the natural (squash or wood) ones) to be used for mate dulce so it is normal for households with drinkers of both kinds to have two separate gourds. It is also often considered proper only for children and women, not for adult men, though this is becoming quickly obsolete.
Traditionally, natural gourds are used, though wood vessels, bamboo tubes and gourd-shaped mates, made of ceramic or metal (stainless steel or even silver) are also common. The gourd is traditionally made out of the porongo or cabaça fruit shell. Gourds are commonly decorated with silver, sporting decorative or heraldic designs with floral motifs.
[edit] Culture
It is the national drink in Uruguay[citation needed], though Paraguay and Argentina also happen to claim nationality over the beverage[citation needed], and drinking it is a common social practice in parts of Brazil, Chile, eastern Bolivia. In Brazil, it is considered to be a tradition typical of the Gauchos, a term commonly used to describe residents of the South American pampas, chacos, or Patagonian grasslands, found principally in parts of Argentina, Uruguay, Southern Chile, and Southern Region, Brazil. The drink contains caffeine.[8]
[edit] Rituals
How to drink Mate
Drinking the yerba mate is considered to be more than just good for the body; it's also good for the soul. Drinking it can be a form of meditation or reflection - allowing the goodness to infuse into the body while stimulating and resting the mind. Those who share the mate join in a kind of bond of total acceptance and friendship. Generally the server will start a new infusion and then take the first drink. This is considered an act of kindness by the other people in the circle, because usually the first serving is considered the worst.
Both the wood vessels and the gourds must undergo curing to get a better taste before being used for the first time and to ensure the long life of the gourd. Typically, to cure a gourd, the wet inside is first scraped with the tip of a teaspoon to remove loose gourd particles. Mate herb and hot water is added next, and the mixture poured into the gourd. The mixture is left to sit overnight and the water is topped off periodically through the next 24 hours as the gourd absorbs the water. Finally the gourd is scraped out, emptied, and put in sunlight until completely dry. Drying the gourd near a Parrilla (barbecue grill) is common in Argentina or Uruguay and adds a smokey flavor to the gourd.
It is common for a black mold to grow inside a poorly scraped gourd when it is stored wet. Some people will clean this out, others consider it an enhancement to the mate flavor. Storing the gourd empty and in a well ventilated place, like an open shelf, is the better way.[citation needed]
[edit] Health effects
Mate is very much like coffee and tea, is considered safe by the United States Food and Drug Administration, and is on their GRAS (Generally Recognized as Safe) list.
In-vivo and in-vitro studies are showing that yerba mate exhibits significant cancer-fighting activity. In 1995, research at the University of Illinois found yerba mate to inhibit the proliferation of oral cancer cells.
On the other hand, researchers in Mississippi found that both cold and hot water extractions of popular commercial yerba mate products contained high levels (8.03 to 53.3 ng/g dry leaves) of carcinogenic polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs) (i.e. Benzo[a]pyrene).[9] However, these potential carcinogenic compounds originate from commercial drying process of the mate leaves, which involves smoke from the burning of wood, much like polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons found in wood smoked meat.[10]
Other studies have highlighted limited evidence showing an association between esophageal cancer and hot mate drinking. Some research has suggested that this effect is almost entirely a consequence of hot mate's temperature; similar links to cancer have been found for tea and other beverages generally consumed at high temperatures. While drinking mate at very hot temperatures is considered as \"probably carcinogenic to humans\" on the IARC Group 2A carcinogens list, mate itself is not classifiable as to its carcinogenicity to humans.[11]
Also one study has found link between mate consumption and increased risk of bladder[12] and lung[13] cancer.
[edit] Legendary origins
The Guaraní (Guarani, in Portuguese) people started drinking mate in the region that now includes Paraguay, southern Brazil, south-easthern Bolivia, north-east Argentina, and Uruguay. The Guaraní have a legend that says that the Goddesses of the Moon and the Cloud came to the Earth one day to visit it but they instead found a Yaguareté (a jaguar) that was going to attack them. An old man saved them, and, in compensation, the Goddesses gave the old man a new kind of plant, from which he could prepare a \"drink of friendship\".
Mate is served with a metal straw from a shared hollow calabash gourd. The straw is called a bombilla in some Latin American countries, a bomba in Portuguese, and a bombija or in general a masassa (type of straw) in Arabic. The straw is traditionally made of silver. Modern commercially available straws are typically made of nickel silver, called Alpaca, stainless steel, or hollow-stemmed cane. The gourd is known as a mate or a guampa, while in Brazil it has the specific name of cuia. Even if the water comes in a very modern thermos, the infusion is traditionally drunk from mates or cuias.
As with other brewed herbs, yerba mate leaves are dried, chopped, and ground into a powdery mixture called yerba. The bombilla acts as both a straw and a sieve. The submerged end is flared, with small holes or slots that allow the brewed liquid in, but block the chunky matter that makes up much of the mixture. A modern bombilla design uses a straight tube with holes, or spring sleeve to act as a sieve.
It is pronounced part of the culture that took me a second to get used to and made me acutely aware of how hurried, and fast paced our culture is, and how much we miss out on in are race to be on top. It brings one back to a human level of being comfortable sitting for long periods of time just talking with men. It's therapeutic and calming, and I found myself looking forward to it everyday, especially when we got deep into the back country on the cold rainy days. You sip out of the same bowl, so it's like smoking a bowl of herb except it's liquid and non mind altering, however in a sense it is, in that it leaves you relaxed. There is something healing about burning wood, talking, and drinking a hot drink that does something healthy to the human spirit.")
The Golden Gate Bridge of Patagonia. Looks just like it! Being from San Francisco I thought that was pretty amazing and got a few good shots. To my left is a super market were we picked up supplies for the fly fishing excursion. While waiting I took my fly rod and decided to try a bit of fishing by the bridge for kicks. Armed with a 6 weight fly rod I walked over and began casting. I hooked into something which to this day I am not sure what type of fish it was as it snapped me off with in 30 seconds or so. Every time I see the photo of this Chilean bridge I think of that fish and wonder what might it have been... I guess we will never no, some things are best that way.
The Golden Gate Bridge of Patagonia. Looks just like it! Being from San Francisco I thought that was pretty amazing and got a few good shots. To my left is a super market were we picked up supplies for the fly fishing excursion. While waiting I took my fly rod and decided to try a bit of fishing by the bridge for kicks. Armed with a 6 weight fly rod I walked over and began casting. I hooked into something which to this day I am not sure what type of fish it was as it snapped me off with in 30 seconds or so. Every time I see the photo of this Chilean bridge I think of that fish and wonder what might it have been... I guess we will never no, some things are best that way.
